Do you have questions about your dog? Here I will answer some of the most common ones, along
with some emergency questions as well. Keep in mind that I didn't write the doggie bible. I'm simply answering
questions to the best of my ability, drawing from my experiences as a trainer. If you have any doggie questions
that are not answered here, feel free to submit them using the "Have a Question or Comment?" link below. If I deem it worthy, I may add it to
this page. ;-)
Use the links below to jump to the Q&A you wish to read...
What are the best toys for my dog?
First let me start by telling you about the toys I DON'T recommend for your dog. Do not leave stuffed toys or squeaky
toys down with your dog. Those toys are great for getting their attention, and maybe a game or two of fetch, but
for chewing and unsupervised play it's a definite no. The reason being is because (unless your dog has no teeth)
he will tear these toys up and attempt to swallow pieces of them, some of which can become lodged in his digestive
system and cause serious problems. So keep squeakies and stuffies for training. Also, I don't recommend regular
rawhide chews... if you don't know what I'm referring to, it's the bones and chews that get soggy and turn white
when it's chewed on. Once it gets soft, your dog might try to swallow big chunks of it, which again can cause
problems to his digestive system. I recommend you try compressed rawhide bones or real sterilized bones instead.
If you don't have access to either of those and absolutely insist on giving your dog regular rawhide, watch him closely
and when the bone starts to get soggy and white, put it up to dry and bring out another one that isn't soggy.
Another type of toy you want to avoid is the type that's made out of soft plastic or rubber. Get some nice tough
rubber toys such as thick balls and Kongs, like those below...
Also, you might want to alternate your toys. Dogs are like us regarding their entertainment. They can most definitely
get bored. So have some of your dog's favorite toys put away and when he shows lack of interest in what he's got,
switch them. Later on down the road when you're forced to switch them again, his old toys that you had hidden will
seem brand new. =D
How can I make my dog stop barking like an idiot?
Nothing's more annoying than a "BARK BARK BARK BARK BARK". But you must know that your dog isn't doing that to tick
you off. He is doing it because he thinks it's necessary for some reason or other. If it's because of anxiety (he's
been left alone is a common reason) he needs something else to do to occupy his time. See the Separation Anxiety Q&A.
However, if it's because something alerted him, then he is simply barking because he thinks it is his job to warn
you. Which... really it is, but he shouldn't be going on for hours at a time (exageration). You need to teach him
the command "Quiet". Now, if you said "Quiet" to him right now, he would only hear "Bla Bla" because he doesn't
know what "Quiet" means. You have to show him through the Command-> Proper Response-> Reward technique.
There are 2 things you can try actually. The first one is teach him to "Speak". What?! But THAT's the problem, you say.
Yes, but if you use it as a command, it will suddenly become a chore and your dog will be less willing to do it. Also,
it is easier to teach quiet when you can control when he's speaking. To have your dog "Speak" on command
CLICK HERE.
The second thing you can try is either Listerine breath strips or Binaca breath spray. MOST dogs find the taste
rather shocking, so if you put it in your dog's mouth when they are barking, they are likely to shut up almost
immediately. Take that opportunity to say "Quiet" then you MUST praise because your dog HAS quit barking (even if
is only because he's suddenly trying control his over-abundant drool). After a few times of this, he will start to
understand that you want him to stop when you give the quiet command, and in most cases, you can simply just show him
the breath freshener to make him stop. He'll recognize what it is and remember what you want.
Does my dog have Separation Anxiety?
If Rover is chewing stuff up, pottying in the house, or barking uncontrollably when you leave your home, then yes,
it is likely he has Separation Anxiety. I suppose you'll be wanting to know what to do about that? Two things... First of all,
try your very VERY best to ensure your dog has exercised adequately before you have to leave. I recommend a 30-45
minute walk. Second, your dog needs something to occupy him while you are gone. Dogs are pack animals. When they
are separated from their pack (especially since they don't understand WHY) they become quite unnerved. Give them
something to do that will keep them busy and disinterested in your departure. What do I recommend? Find a hollow
toy or bone (I use the Kong toys) and fill it with something extra special, such as peanut butter, Cheese Whiz, or
liverwurst. Your dog will be so preoccupied with trying to remove every last drop or crumb with his tongue that he won't
realize you've gone. And even if he finishes up before you return, he didn't have to go through all of the drama
of your departure, therefore he will remain relaxed and serene.
It is important that you ONLY give your dog this special treat when you will be gone. If he gets it all of the time,
it will not be so fascinating when you need it to be the most. Also, when you leave, the worst thing you can do is
make a big deal about your departure. For example, none of this... "Fluffy! Mommy and Daddy have to go to the store.
Be a good doggie while we're away. We love you SOOOO much!" *kiss kiss* *pet pet* *total abandonment* In this fashion,
dogs are NOT like people, who generally require cordial good-byes to feel good. Exciting good-byes will only add
to your dog's anxiety. Wait until your dog is busy with his "busy treat" then try to slip out unnoticed.
Help! My dog ate glass! What do I do?
I definitely recommend you contact your local vet because this is a potentially serious situation. However, there
is something you can do at home if you can't get a hold of some professional help.
Rummage through your medicine
cabinet for cotton balls that are made of 100% cotton (you don't want the
cosmetic fiber kind for this). Next, grab some cream, half & half, or even some milk out of the fridge. Soak the cotton
balls in the cream and allow your dog to eat it. Strangely enough, most dogs gulp these down as if they are special treats.
The cotton will gather the glass in the digestive system and will help provide a cushion for your dog's insides. For
dogs under 50 pounds, feed 3-5 cotton balls (you may need to tear the balls into smaller pieces if you have a tiny dog
or pup). And for larger dogs, feed 5-7 balls. Their poo may not be pretty, but this method should remove any sharp
objects your dog so brilliantly ingested.
How can I get my dog to release items?
Attempting to pry things from your dog's mouth will only cause him to clamp down tighter on the object to prevent himself from
losing it. For this problem, you will need to teach the command "Drop It". The solution is simple. When you want him
to release something, offer him something better in return. Command him to "Drop It" while making your offer, then throw
in that wonderful praise when he drops his item to go for yours! When he completely understands this command (it will
take some practice) you should eventually be able to have him release items without having to make another offer.
My dog is completely spastic! How can I calm him down?
Some breeds, like hunting or herding dogs, require a lot more exercise to keep themselves balanced than other breeds. You should definitely
plan on a 45 minute power walk each day to keep you and your dog both sane. Also, picking up the pace will help your
dog burn off more of that energy, so try running, rollerblading or riding a bike with your dog, if you can do that
safely. Something else I recommend is that you purchase a doggie backpack (which looks more like saddle bags) and put
your dog to work carrying items! This gives your dog a job that not only challenges him physically, but it will
exercise him mentally as well, which will help burn off more of that energy. You dog shouldn't be carrying more than
12% of his body weight, but what he can carry is unlimited. Try some water bottles, some books, or something
else you need toted. Don't forget, when you pet your dog or give him any attention this is a type of reward. Do
not reward him for spastic behavior. Wait until he is calm before giving him the attention he desires. In other
words, if you've just come home and Spunky is jumping all over you, don't talk to, touch or even look at him until
he's gotten over his episode. He will begin to notice that his behavior invites avoidance, which is something he
doesn't want. And you should start to see the behavior subside.
How can I stop my dog from peeing when she gets excited?
This is called "submissive urination" and it is not a house breaking issue. What your dog is trying to communicate is
that she acknowledges that you or another dog is a pack leader. That is her way of broadcasting it. Any reprimanding you
do will cause more of this behavior, because in her mind she might think maybe you didn't see her submission the
first time. Perhaps more is required. To stop this, speak to her in a monotone voice until she is confident in your
presence. Avoid leaning over her. This is what dominant dogs do to other dogs to remind them of their rank in the pack.
Try kneeling to her level instead.
Also, I recommend you pet her under the chin instead on of the top of the head. Of course, if none of these things are working,
it is probably best to ignore her completely until she has gained control over herself. As she matures, she is likely to
grow out of this, however, because age and experience naturally brings confidence. Just be patient and keep the
paper towels handy.
EW! Why does my dog eat poop and what can I do about it?
There are actually several possible reasons your dog is eating feces. He could be cleaning up the area, hungry, trying
to remove another dog's scent from his territory, bored, or even attention seeking. Some dogs even learn this behavior from
watching other dogs do it. And of course, mother dogs do this naturally with their pups to keep the den area
free from excrements. But no matter how natural the behavior is to them... I agree with you. It's gross. Unfortunately, the most you
can do for this nasty activity is prevent your dog from coming in contact with feces. Keep your yard cleaned up
and walk him on leash when you're in an area you know will have droppings. Or if your dog is only eating his own poo
or your cat's poo, there are some products available out there that you can sprinkle into your pet's food to make their feces
less desirable. Yum.
How can I keep my dog from jumping up?
This annoyance is rather common. And first you should know why. If you watch a group of dogs that are socializing,
you'll see that facial interaction is completely natural to them. They nibble and lick each other on the mouths,
ears and necks repeatedly while greeting and playing. Remember, your dog thinks that you are another dog in his
pack. So when he's jumping up on you, he's only doing that to socialize with you. He doesn't understand that it
annoys you. Therefore, you'll have to communicate through body language that you don't like this behavior, AND
furthermore you
must provide an alternative behavior as a way for Fido to earn the socialization he so
desperately desires. Read on...
For example... You come home from the mall and Fido is ecstatic to be reunited with you. You do not appreciate him
running his claws down the front of your nice clean shirt, so you tell him to "Sit". This is the alternative I
mentioned. Fido can have your attention if he sits. Unfortunately, on this particular day, Fido is
out of control and does not heed your command. Therefore, you don't touch him, you don't look at him, and you don't
speak to him until he obeys the sit command. What Fido really wants is your attention. If jumping up is the tool that works the
least, he must find another tool that works better... such as "sitting". If he will not sit, or even just remain on all
fours, turn your back to him and avoid him until he is calm. When he finally does earn your affection, be sure to
administer it calmly. If you get to excited, he may resort to jumping up again. REMEMBER: If you touch Fido after
he has jumped up on you, you have given him what he wanted. He has learned that jumping up really does work and
he will continue to do it. In addition, even if you have been consistent for a long time but you finally give in
and pet him, he will have learned that he must jump up for longer periods of time in order to get what he wants.
Fido must be in a sit or on all fours to get your attention. It's that simple. Tough love, my friend. Sometimes it's necessary.
What can you tell me about my dog being in heat?
A female dog usually comes into her first heat at around 6 months of age. After that, her cycle will come around
about every 6 to 8 months with each heat lasting around 21 days(3 weeks), give or take a few days.
Only when your dog is in heat can she become pregnant, and male dogs can smell this from far,
FAR away. You can take her out with you, but make sure you keep her on leash and supervise her closely. She will
be a magnet for male dogs and the majority of females dogs WILL allow themselves to be mounted when in heat. Your
dog should bleed a little bit, but their menstruation is nothing like a human woman's. Therefore you must pay
close attention to her or simply get her spayed (recommended) after about 6 months of age. If you choose not to
spay her, know that dogs do not go through menopause. She will have her heat cycle for her entire life.
How can I get my dog to stop pulling on the leash?
In order for you to present the idea to your dog that you are the pack leader, he must walk beside or behind you.
If he is in front of you and pulling, he is leading you, not the other way around. But how you get him to stop
pulling? First, if you use a flexi lead (the leashes that come with the plastic handle and allow your dog to reel
himself in and out) I would get rid of it. The inconsistency of it only adds to your dog's confusion
on where his place is during a walk. Also, if you can slip more than two fingers under your dog's collar, it is
too loose. Tighten it so that it will stay where you need it to be. When you're on leash, the collar should be
way up high on your dog's neck (right behind the ears and at the top of the throat just behind the jaw). The lower
part of the neck is the strongest and with it your dog is able to pull large loads if he wants to. The upper
part of the neck is more tender, however, and he is less likely to pull hard if the collar is in the right place.
Now that you know this we can move on to the walk retraining...
First, before you even leave the house, get Sparky into a calm submissive state of mind. In other words, don't leave
if your dog is bouncing all around. Gain control over him before you set out. Have him hold a "sit" on leash
for a little bit until he calms down. Once outside, let your dog know straight away that he's not going to pull you.
Give a sharp pop on the leash for a correction, but immediately release the tension. How you can tell if your correction was an effective one is if your dog turns his head to investigate what happened,
or if he immediately relaxes the leash. If he doesn't
bother and continues to pull, he obviously has a higher threshold for discomfort. Try a harder pop next time. Also,
don't wait until Fido is at the end of the leash. You should know your dog by now. Does it look like he's
thinking about taking off? Correct him before it escalates. This is not cruel. Letting your dog be out of control is
cruel. Your dog wants to walk with you, but if he is pulling you everywhere, you're less willing to walk
him, which is bad for both of you. Your corrections are not hurting him (as long as you don't become unreasonable).
You are simply
getting his attention, like a mother dog or dominant pack leader would if they were displeased with your dog's
behavior and wanted him to cut it out. Feel free to offer
quiet praise when the leash is not taut (though, nothing too exciting). In fact, your praise will let him know what you really
want from him, so I recommend it.
Also, be aware of the fact that your dog does not have to sniff or mark everything. After he has earned it by walking nicely for about 10-15
minutes, allow him a break so he can do what he likes. But once break time is over, he's to stay beside or behind
you without making you stop for him.
Do feel free to pick up the pace. Some dogs are working dogs and need that
exercise. Try roller blading, or biking with your dog if you can. Or even better, I've had quite a few students
in my classes order doggie backpacks off of Amazon and put bottles of water or other
objects inside for their
dogs to carry. With a job to do, your dog must concentrate more on what he's doing, which requires more physical
and mental energy. This will shed time off of your walks and prevent your dog from pulling all at the same time!
Just be sure not to have your dog carry more than 12% of his body weight if you choose this method.
(I put up the Amazon links below with the different sizes so you can see to what I am referring.)
How can I stop my puppy from biting on me?
Have you ever watched a litter of puppies interact with each other? Biting is what they do. But they have a way of
telling their counterparts that they have been bitten too hard. They emit an ear piercing, glass shattering yelp. You
are going to do something similar. When your dog is nibbling, if you feel even the slightest pressure (do not wait
until he or she has bitten too hard already) you are going to let out a sharp "Ouch!". Saying the word does nothing.
It must be prominent enough to get their attention (they should stop and investigate your reaction). When they stop
biting, give a little reassuring praise so your pup knows its reaction was correct. That was their only chance. If
you must yelp again, playtime is over. You put Fido down and ignore him completely for 5 minutes. If you are
consistent, Fido
will begin to realize that when he bites, no one wants to play with him anymore. Fido lives for your attention, so
he will avoid behavior that sends you away. If you have children, you will have to explain this process to them.
You will have the best results if EVERYONE is working as a team to stop this.
